Up early and away. Causeway Hotel continues to be a disappointment. It'll show up on Tripadvisor soon enough...
We head straight to Belfast and make good tiime. There is time to check out the sights in the town, well some of them anyway. We ride along the Falls Road, Shankhill Road and Crumlin Road. All roads with names imprinted on childhood memories of news broadcasts. None of them give us any difficulty at all. There are hundreds of flags in the pro-british areas but murals abound on both sides. The most telling thing though is that normal life is going on. There are visits to make, shopping to buy, all in shops and premises you see on any High Street, no drama at all.
We arrive at the ferry and make the crossing in good time.
Soon after we land at Stranraer we encounter rain, rain and more rain that would track us on our journey all the way home.
So was the holiday worth doing? YES YES YES! It was fantastic to meet the people we did and see the sights we saw. Thanks to Aidan and Mandy, the inspiration for the trip and for looking after us. The scenery was terrific and the roads perfect for bikes (well most of the time anyway) Even the weather, changeable as it was didn't dent our fun and enjoyment. It was a shame that we had to cut out some of the highlights we'd wanted to see but this does of course give the perfect reason to go back, and soon too.
These blog pages are unfinished and more mapping will be introduced over the coming days and maybe the odd tweak here and there too. If you've not been to Ireland before, go now. Don't wait as I did because of the 'troubles' - the risk is only in your mind, go and soak up the experience as soon as you can.
Thanks, Al and Sandy
Thursday, September 1, 2011
Manorhamilton to Causeway Coast (Day 7of8)
Away after a fine breakfast at our B&B and on a route that was going to have to cut out some of the spots we had intended to visit. Enquiries showed that it was not possible to push back the Causway hotel booking one night, as they were full, and the ferry was going to cost some money to change the day too. The weather was great and we stopped next to Lough Mcnean Upper to take in this view across the water with the rising mist - gorgeous
Then we start climbing on bouncing roads (sorry Sandy - not comfortable) and then on to really narrow lanes, tracks, scree, grass covered tracks as we rose through the trees to reach Navar View, Fermanagh. This was supposed to be a cracking view acrosstowards Tyrone and Donegal, over Lower Lough Erne. Well after all that effort we found we could see for... well... feet! - due to the fog.
We met a guy there and chatted for ages. Within just 5 minutes he was offering for us to stay with him and his wife on our next visit, wow, friendly people here. After 20 - 30 minutes the wind came up and hey presto, a view developed in seconds
We arrive in Letterkenny when I find the right turn road towards Greencastle shut, no problem, just keep going and let the sat.nav. do the business. So we end up on a parallel road that gets quieter and narrower. I'm looking desperately for the right turn that gets us back onto our route. Then the sat. nav. and I detect the turn, well soon we enter a farm and then what looked like an industrial cement works. About to give up and turn back, a chap comes out of his cabin to help. He confirms the road does go through, but admits 'we moved it 1/2 a kilometre and it's not that great for bikes...' - so of course that's the way we went, ooh er. The track turned to that creamy chalky consistancy that was more like slippery slurry where damp, mmm interesting, but we got through in the end.
We arrive in Greencastle to see the ferry we wanted heading away across Lough Foyle, we were 8 minutes late. It gave us the chance to have a swift look round before it came back in another 1/2 an hour.
Sandy pole dancing on the pier edge ...
Onto the ferry then and across Lough Foyle. £5 each, so not too bad.
and the landing site on the east side,
Arrived at the Causway coast line, the view of the coastline from near the hotel
How it was made,
What it's made of
The story...
Sandy sitting in the giant's boot
me not taking it seriously,
I could have been a model...
The stones then,
Kids and water eh?
And parents aren't so smart either! just after a wave nearly took them away, bet they're cold as well as wet!
And then back to the hotel for a most mediocre meal (inedible in parts) before retiring for the night, disapointing end to the great day, but we'll not let it spoil things.
Route today 143 miles
Then we start climbing on bouncing roads (sorry Sandy - not comfortable) and then on to really narrow lanes, tracks, scree, grass covered tracks as we rose through the trees to reach Navar View, Fermanagh. This was supposed to be a cracking view acrosstowards Tyrone and Donegal, over Lower Lough Erne. Well after all that effort we found we could see for... well... feet! - due to the fog.
We met a guy there and chatted for ages. Within just 5 minutes he was offering for us to stay with him and his wife on our next visit, wow, friendly people here. After 20 - 30 minutes the wind came up and hey presto, a view developed in seconds
We arrive in Letterkenny when I find the right turn road towards Greencastle shut, no problem, just keep going and let the sat.nav. do the business. So we end up on a parallel road that gets quieter and narrower. I'm looking desperately for the right turn that gets us back onto our route. Then the sat. nav. and I detect the turn, well soon we enter a farm and then what looked like an industrial cement works. About to give up and turn back, a chap comes out of his cabin to help. He confirms the road does go through, but admits 'we moved it 1/2 a kilometre and it's not that great for bikes...' - so of course that's the way we went, ooh er. The track turned to that creamy chalky consistancy that was more like slippery slurry where damp, mmm interesting, but we got through in the end.
We arrive in Greencastle to see the ferry we wanted heading away across Lough Foyle, we were 8 minutes late. It gave us the chance to have a swift look round before it came back in another 1/2 an hour.
Sandy pole dancing on the pier edge ...
Onto the ferry then and across Lough Foyle. £5 each, so not too bad.
and the landing site on the east side,
Arrived at the Causway coast line, the view of the coastline from near the hotel
How it was made,
What it's made of
The story...
Sandy sitting in the giant's boot
me not taking it seriously,
I could have been a model...
The stones then,
Kids and water eh?
And parents aren't so smart either! just after a wave nearly took them away, bet they're cold as well as wet!
And then back to the hotel for a most mediocre meal (inedible in parts) before retiring for the night, disapointing end to the great day, but we'll not let it spoil things.
Route today 143 miles
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Clifden to Sligo (Day 6of8)
Well isn't the world wonderful. Feeling great as we set off. We've lost a day but the plan is to complete the intended route that we should have done yesterday. One option is to push back the Saturday ferry to Sunday and push back the Friday night accommodation one night too (it's at the Causway Hotel). We'll try that out later.
The weather starts off well, but is soon becomes changeable. The rain from yesterday keeps threatening, but this does give us some crackingly dramatic skies.
The scenery just gets better, take a look at these and remember to click them to get the larger views too.
When was the last time you saw a child-picture-perfect shape of a mountain like this?
And this scene was just breathtakingly beautiful -
Time for a cuppa - huge portions of tea and coffee here, more like buckets!
The next time I'm stuck in busy traffic I shall remember this scene. Road clear of people and traffic all the way to the horizon and wonderful clear views across the landscape - wow!
More tea! Locals in bar spark up a conversation with Sandy the moment I leave to get something from the bike. On my return I can hear the conversation and I sympathise with her as the accents are so strong here, neither of us have much of a clue what is being said. It was english but we are not far from the irish-as-as-first-language area, so perhaps this explains it a little. Nice guys though!
We arrive in Sligo and the heavens open. We make it to W.B. Yeats's grave in the churchyard and check out the church, simple but nice.
Sligo looks uninviting and this feeling continues as we approach a few B&B premises, looking for a night stop. Even though the season is quiet, the weather poor and the car parks of the premises empty, we struggle to get a reply and when we do, the briefest of glances at us produces the response that they are full, yeah right!
Although Aidan tells us that the motorcycle discrimination sometimes found in the UK does not exist here, I'm unconvinced, at least here for a moment anyway. Wet bedraggled motorcyclists are not welcomed here with open arms, (okay, fair enough!). We move on a few miles, eating into tomorrows route a little.
We stop at Manorhamilton. A visit into the the B&B/restaurant opposite the Milestone Pub looks good. In I go and ask,
'Do you have any vacancies? and the reply is,
'y-e-s... we might have...'
I point out that she sounded a little guarded and she flashes back with a big smile and says I sounded a little cautious!
Barriers down and we got the best coffee ever whilst they prepared our room. Staff moved their cars to allow space to secrete the bikes from general view too. Very nice people.
Evening meal was in the pub opposite where we had the (probably) best fish and chips I've ever had in a pub - superb. Deffo they could teach Stena Line a few things about how to treat fish!
A good end to a great day.
The B&B
Route today 165 miles
Seaside route to Clifden via Cong (Day 4of8)
From the B&B we were off towards the coast from Enistimon to Enistymon (I know that'd confuse me too) to be met with a wonderful view
In the distance you can see the Arran Islands (not to be confused with the Isle of Arran)
Then down the coast to Dunguaire Castle. Looked worth a vist, so we thought we'd have a look in...
But it only has one tower
and they wanted 6 euros each to go in, so like everyone else at the time, we declined and had a walk round (the perimeter wall) instead, so peaceful with the swans and all.
Before leaving we spotted this superb house...
We now set off towards Clifden, via Cong. Cong is the village used in the 1952 film "The Quiet Man" where it was called Innisfree. The film is well known and maintains a keen following even after all this time.
Sandy posing in front of the "Pat Cohan Bar"
Me in front of the pub that could have been named after me...(what?)
Before we could go there was a glitch, I'd left my helmet in the Tourist Office and they were now closed for a leisurely lunch. Me walking back with the information...
And finally off we go again... The views on the way to Clifden were wonderful. Click these to get a better view.
Finally we arrive in Clifden. We opt for a town centre B&B this time. The first one was attractive as it was only 40 euros for the room, but the land(lady) scared me, so a hasty retreat to the B&B over the road was sought. This one was great, although twice the price. We wouldn't know at this point that we would be staying for 2 nights...
Off out for a pint of Guinness (medicinal you know) and a curry in a local Indian. Once back at the B&B I am struck down with chronic toothache. Aye Aye Aye Aye Ah All night long. Not a wink of sleep, soooooo painful.
Sandy is off round the corner first thing in the morning (0700hrs) to check out the local dentist and before you know it I'm sat in there as they open and they take pity on this pathetic creature,. One session of root canal treatment later (blimey - horrid) and AMAZINGLY - no pain! Could have kissed the Dentist and would have paid a years wages for the relief she gave me.
I'm so tired (and traumatised too, I spend the day and second night asleep) It pours with rain most of the time anyway. Sandy was great, no issue, just got on supporting me. Thank you so much! X
Our B&B
Route today 120 miles
Let Loose on our own! (Day 3of8)
Up early to leave, before Aidan or Mandy had to return to the real world (that'll be paid work)
Sad to go really as we'd had so much fun, yet exciting at the same time (felt like a kid all of a sudden)
We're on our way at 8am with fond goodbyes to Aidan and Mandy, so many thanks for your kindness and the trouble you went to, looking after us and showing us the way round.
Our first trip was to have a look at an ancient monument, known as 'New Grange'
This was to be our intended culture for the trip and it took some finding I'll say. Some small and narrow roads in and around the area... Then I thought I'd found it...!
And dangerous round here too, it seems - eek!
In the end we found the site. We parked in the car park, next to the attractions buses that were preparing for their day and went into the site.
At the kiosk we were stopped by a very nice lady. She explained that we could not enter as we needed to go 10km to the visitor centre, where we could board the bus and come back.... (no really!) - just so there was no confusion, I asked if the buses were the ones we had just parked the bikes next to...
"Yes that's right, you see this is a 'World Heritage Site' and the roads are very narrow round here so you'll have to go to the visitor centre if you want to go in".
Pointing out the obvious, that we were here already, on narrow bikes, parked inobtrusively in the car park, so surely we didn't have to go 10km to get onto one of the buses we'd parked next to?- because of course that doesn't make sense does it...? ... cut no sway with this lady. In well practised and automaton style, she continued by repeating that we had to understand it was a World Heritage Site etc etc.
So this is all we could sneek before we did a runner..
.
So now where off to? Lets try some more culture then!
So we started with a distillery (what? it is culture!). It had a working water wheel outside that was doing it's best to disintegrate before your eyes
So onwards and south west to a place called Burren National Park, better known perhaps for being the site of 'Craggy Island' sadly not actually an island though, but at least it meant we could get to it easily though.
The land around it gives the 'craggy' to the name perhaps, acres of bare stone on the hills and on the flat gives a surreal view...
And Father Ted's house of course!
It's fair to say that some of these roads were becoming challenging. Aidan had said that the GS is particularly suitable for Ireland and its roads and now we could see that was true. Sandy was having to negotiate some very poor, loose and gravelly tracks, way too poor to be called roads!
We finished the day in Ennistimon. A short visit to the filling station soon furnished us with details for a suitable B&B, the Grovement House. Very nice too!
Off walking into the town for some food and a walk round too. Nice end to a good day. About as far south as we would get on our travels. The scenery today was not bad, but not that great, as we were heading across the relatively flat centre of the land mass. The last part with Father Ted's got so much better and set the scene for the next day.
Route today 210 miles
Sad to go really as we'd had so much fun, yet exciting at the same time (felt like a kid all of a sudden)
We're on our way at 8am with fond goodbyes to Aidan and Mandy, so many thanks for your kindness and the trouble you went to, looking after us and showing us the way round.
Our first trip was to have a look at an ancient monument, known as 'New Grange'
This was to be our intended culture for the trip and it took some finding I'll say. Some small and narrow roads in and around the area... Then I thought I'd found it...!
And dangerous round here too, it seems - eek!
In the end we found the site. We parked in the car park, next to the attractions buses that were preparing for their day and went into the site.
At the kiosk we were stopped by a very nice lady. She explained that we could not enter as we needed to go 10km to the visitor centre, where we could board the bus and come back.... (no really!) - just so there was no confusion, I asked if the buses were the ones we had just parked the bikes next to...
"Yes that's right, you see this is a 'World Heritage Site' and the roads are very narrow round here so you'll have to go to the visitor centre if you want to go in".
Pointing out the obvious, that we were here already, on narrow bikes, parked inobtrusively in the car park, so surely we didn't have to go 10km to get onto one of the buses we'd parked next to?- because of course that doesn't make sense does it...? ... cut no sway with this lady. In well practised and automaton style, she continued by repeating that we had to understand it was a World Heritage Site etc etc.
So this is all we could sneek before we did a runner..
.
So now where off to? Lets try some more culture then!
So we started with a distillery (what? it is culture!). It had a working water wheel outside that was doing it's best to disintegrate before your eyes
So onwards and south west to a place called Burren National Park, better known perhaps for being the site of 'Craggy Island' sadly not actually an island though, but at least it meant we could get to it easily though.
The land around it gives the 'craggy' to the name perhaps, acres of bare stone on the hills and on the flat gives a surreal view...
And Father Ted's house of course!
It's fair to say that some of these roads were becoming challenging. Aidan had said that the GS is particularly suitable for Ireland and its roads and now we could see that was true. Sandy was having to negotiate some very poor, loose and gravelly tracks, way too poor to be called roads!
We finished the day in Ennistimon. A short visit to the filling station soon furnished us with details for a suitable B&B, the Grovement House. Very nice too!
Off walking into the town for some food and a walk round too. Nice end to a good day. About as far south as we would get on our travels. The scenery today was not bad, but not that great, as we were heading across the relatively flat centre of the land mass. The last part with Father Ted's got so much better and set the scene for the next day.
Route today 210 miles
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
A trip round to the east coast (Day 2of8)
Day 2of8
Up and at em. Well, up at a reasonable time anyway, slept like a log. We're off to see the local sights towards the east coast, Newcastle way, courtesy of Aidan's tour guide skills.
Tandragee 100. This motorcycle road race was on the 7th May this year, so we were a bit late starting on the grid, but we did the circuit of 5.34375 miles in record time (well my record anyway!) - hats off to the guys doing this circuit for real, the road is not so smooth and you must spend much of the time in the air!
A view from the start line...
Not sure where we went next, but I guess Aidan, you can remind me... We would dip in and out of Ireland, across the border and back again.
It was a revelation to us that, given the 'troubles' of the region that the border wasn't controlled, staffed or even marked. The only way you knew was the amount of yellow used in the Irish signs compared with the standard British set up. So no passport required then?
Fantastic views across a lake or two here...
Sandy and Mandy (sounds like a pop-duo)
The scene was so quiet and serene looking around us.
Sandy in thoughtful pose
Crossmaglen - one of those towns we grew up hearing about, and not for good reasons either. Here we have the Republican Memorial in Crossmaglen village, County Armagh
and an explanation of the symbol... (as with all these images, just click onto them for a larger picture)
So why pose for a picture at this politically sensitive structure then? A good question and Aidan's offer to take a picture of us with our camera put us on the spot. He pointed out it was fine to have a picture, and fine not to as well; no issue, no problem.
Clearly we had our picture taken, but it would not be the first time we had to consider the sesnsitivities involved. You might expect that, as British subjects, we might find ourselves uncomfortable in the Republican arena areas, yet feel 'at home' in the staunchly pro-british areas found on our travels. Actually the opposite was the case. The preponderance of union flags in some areas at times would be unsettling - it just felt that one side was more comfortable with their position whilst the other felt the need to tell you how it should be, in any way possible. No political view here, these are just the feelings from what we experienced; we are just on holiday!
Next stop was Slieve Gullion, the highest mountain in Armagh (573m) with a cracking view of the Ring of Gullion and also the incoming weather systems!
The top of the mountain has a national monument and Aidan allowed me his first portrait shot, stomach in, chest out, show those abs!
Then it's down the mountain to Spelga Dam. We are then entertained by a hill that goes downhill by going uphill.... Dis-believers that we were, we had it proved to us... Even on the video it looks like the car rolls uphill - physics turned on it's head or what! Known locally as 'Magic Hill'. Check out more on YouTube!
Back to Aidan's for the night, but then a trip out to the local pub for a meal, nice nosh guys. On the way back through the park, we find that the GS bikes have a different spec. here and must be feared locally; guess muzzles are the next step!
Route today 132miles
Up and at em. Well, up at a reasonable time anyway, slept like a log. We're off to see the local sights towards the east coast, Newcastle way, courtesy of Aidan's tour guide skills.
Tandragee 100. This motorcycle road race was on the 7th May this year, so we were a bit late starting on the grid, but we did the circuit of 5.34375 miles in record time (well my record anyway!) - hats off to the guys doing this circuit for real, the road is not so smooth and you must spend much of the time in the air!
A view from the start line...
Not sure where we went next, but I guess Aidan, you can remind me... We would dip in and out of Ireland, across the border and back again.
It was a revelation to us that, given the 'troubles' of the region that the border wasn't controlled, staffed or even marked. The only way you knew was the amount of yellow used in the Irish signs compared with the standard British set up. So no passport required then?
Fantastic views across a lake or two here...
Sandy and Mandy (sounds like a pop-duo)
The scene was so quiet and serene looking around us.
Sandy in thoughtful poseCrossmaglen - one of those towns we grew up hearing about, and not for good reasons either. Here we have the Republican Memorial in Crossmaglen village, County Armagh
and an explanation of the symbol... (as with all these images, just click onto them for a larger picture)
So why pose for a picture at this politically sensitive structure then? A good question and Aidan's offer to take a picture of us with our camera put us on the spot. He pointed out it was fine to have a picture, and fine not to as well; no issue, no problem.
Clearly we had our picture taken, but it would not be the first time we had to consider the sesnsitivities involved. You might expect that, as British subjects, we might find ourselves uncomfortable in the Republican arena areas, yet feel 'at home' in the staunchly pro-british areas found on our travels. Actually the opposite was the case. The preponderance of union flags in some areas at times would be unsettling - it just felt that one side was more comfortable with their position whilst the other felt the need to tell you how it should be, in any way possible. No political view here, these are just the feelings from what we experienced; we are just on holiday!
Next stop was Slieve Gullion, the highest mountain in Armagh (573m) with a cracking view of the Ring of Gullion and also the incoming weather systems!
The top of the mountain has a national monument and Aidan allowed me his first portrait shot, stomach in, chest out, show those abs!
Then it's down the mountain to Spelga Dam. We are then entertained by a hill that goes downhill by going uphill.... Dis-believers that we were, we had it proved to us... Even on the video it looks like the car rolls uphill - physics turned on it's head or what! Known locally as 'Magic Hill'. Check out more on YouTube!
Back to Aidan's for the night, but then a trip out to the local pub for a meal, nice nosh guys. On the way back through the park, we find that the GS bikes have a different spec. here and must be feared locally; guess muzzles are the next step!
Route today 132miles
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